First, cut tip. Cutting the shoot before the mulberry dormancy cut off the young part of the shoot, can increase the spring leaf yield 5 to 10%, but also enhance the mulberry cold resistance. It is advisable to cut the tip before and after the frost. If you have already passed the cut-tip period, you need to cut it when the sap has not yet flowed between February and March in the following year. The cutting tip is based on the principle of long cuts and short cuts. The length of the lake is about 1.3 meters. The length is 1/3 or 1/5. Quick mulberry branches stay 1 meter or 1.3 meters in length for "level shearing" for the winter. Second, clean mulberry garden. After the mulberry defoliates, the litter and weeds in the field are cleared and burned in order to kill the insects, ticks, and egg mass that are overwintering in the deciduous branches. Third, pruning repairs and blocking gaps. The mulberry pests and pathogens are often overwintering in death fists, dry branches, and dry piles. The pruning not only has the effect of reorganizing the tree vigor, but also promotes the effect of neat trees and prevents pests and diseases. Pruning is usually performed after the winter mulberry defoliation occurs before germination in the early spring next year. It is required to completely cut away the dead branches, dry piles, death fists, and pests and branches, and grow old and dry branches with fine branches. Cut them with mulberry scissors (saw), pruning and smoothing, remove knots, and do not damage the tree. It is advisable to go near branches. Fill the cracks in the trunk and kill the pests that have passed the winter in the trunk. Fourth, winter plowing. Winter ploughing is appropriate after deciduous mulberry leaves. Winter plowing requires deep plowing, with a depth of 17 to 19 centimeters, but the sandy soil near the roots should be shallower. Plowing clods do not have to be broken, using winter rain and snow to freeze and loosen the soil, accumulate water, and increase soil fertility. Winter plowing can also freeze to death or sun burn in the soil overwintering insects in order to reduce the overwintering survival base. It is best to combine winter plowing with winter fertilizer, first apply organic fertilizer in large quantities and then plow in winter to save labor and improve efficiency. Fifth, topdressing winter fertilizer. After the mulberry tree enters the dormancy period, it is applied from the end of December to the following January. After winter mulberry dormancy, the mulberry root activity was weak, and most of the fertilized material was not absorbed by roots. The main role of this fertilizer is to supplement, increase soil organic matter, improve soil structure, increase soil fertility, and lay the foundation for the growth of mulberry trees in the second year. Therefore, the winter fertilizer should be rich in organic matter, long-lasting compost, manure, manure, pond mud and other farmyard manure, and can't use quick-acting fertilizers. Sixth, the transformation of invisible mulberry. For non-shaped mulberry trees that are densely enclosed in leaf twigs, they can be removed from trunks and sturdy grade 1 to 2 stems, and all the rest are removed. Fertilizers can be applied in sufficient amounts to allow good mulberry grafting and good tree formation. Seventh, prevent frost disaster. When the temperature drops below 0°C, frost damage should be taken care of; when the temperature is below -0.5°C, frost damage can easily cause damage to shoots and roots. Frost damage occurs in early spring and late autumn, with heavy frost damage in early spring and evening. In order to reduce frost damage, organic fertilizer and potash fertilizer should be applied. Before frost, water can be poured. Wet weeds and straw can be stacked in the mulberry field to ignite fumes, increase ground temperature, and reduce heat loss on the ground. When the mulberry tree suffers from frost damage, the frost section should be cut in time, and the quick-acting fertilizer should be added to promote the recovery. Eight straw branches. After the mulberry defoliation, the branches are bound together with straw before winter plowing. The bondage should not be too tight, so as not to damage the winter buds. This not only facilitates fertilization and field work such as winter plowing, but also corrects the posture of the shoots, inducing pests to infiltrate the sows through the winter and facilitate the killing of pests. Before the mulberry sprouted in March of the following year, after the spring mulberry field operation was completed, the Sokcho was removed, and the sows leached off were concentrated and burned to prevent the spread of pests and diseases. Nine, replanting strains. The lack of planting in the mulberry garden will cause more gaps in the mulberry garden, reduce the utilization of light energy, and affect the yield per unit area of ​​mulberry leaves. Therefore, mulberry plants must be replanted in time. Replanting should be carried out in autumn and winter, and saplings with 2 to 3 years old should be transplanted to make up for deficiencies. The scope of excavation should be larger, more roots should be kept, planting holes must be deep and large, and more basal fertilizer must be added and mixed with the soil. The replanted mulberry trees should be planted with the trees and be planted, and the soil should be solid after the planting. The soil should be watered when the soil is dry. After the survival, the management of fertilizer and water will be strengthened, and the spring-cut of 1 to 2 years will quickly catch up with other large trees. Battening methods can also be used to make up for deficiencies. 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