Hankou Tea City, a century of prosperity and decline

Located in Hankou Tea Market on Chongren Road.

“Three Big Tea Markets”, “Oriental Chicago” and “Hankou Tea Port” are all Hankou that describe “Wanli Tea Road”. At that time, Hankou was so prosperous. In the 30-mile Hankou River Beach, there were large and small docks. "There are crowds of merchants everywhere, the boat is shoulder-strapped, and the waterway is woven." Known as the largest gathering place of “Wanli Tea Road”, Hankou is still the largest tea processing area. Nowadays, in the old house where Hankou still exists, you can see the shadow of the tea market at that time.

Although the Hankou tea market has lost its prosperity at that time, its tea market in the country has an irreplaceable role. This issue of Urban Geography reporter interviewed Liu Xiaohang, an expert of the "Tea Road" of the Hubei Provincial Academy of Social Sciences, to restore the most authentic "Hankou" at the time of "Wanli Tea Road", and also visited Zhongnan, located at No. 148, Chongren Road, Hankou. The first tea market, Hankou Tea Market, lets you know the current Hankou tea market.

Liu Xiaohang, former director of the Tourism Department of the Central South Branch of Wuhan University of Science and Technology, is currently a special editor of the Wuhan Branch of the Wuhan University Press and an expert of the Hubei Provincial Academy of Social Sciences' Tea Road.

"It is better to have no meat for three days, no tea for one day."

Yangtze River Geography: How is China's Tea Road formed?

Liu Xiaohang: There are three famous tea roads in China. One is the “Tea Horse Ancient Road”. This passage is an ancient trade route between Yunnan, Sichuan and Tibet. Through the transportation of caravans, the tea leaves of Sichuan and Yunnan can be used with Tibet. Horses and medicinal materials trade, Yunnan tea is mainly Pu'er tea, Sichuan tea is mainly green tea and glutinous tea; another road is "tea-horse mutual market", originated from the Tang and Song dynasties, feudal dynasty tea and northwestern minority tea horse Trade-centered trade exchanges have safeguarded the unity of the nation and the country; and that is what we call the “Wanli Tea Road”, which is our “China-Russia Tea Road”. Between the Yongzheng era and the Revolution of 1911, it carried a 260-year history, which was called "the great tea road" in Russia.

Speaking of the origin of "Wanli Tea Road", the main reason is that tea has a large market in Europe. In the late Ming Dynasty, the Portuguese missionaries brought tea from Europe to Europe. When the Portuguese princess married the United Kingdom, the tea served as her dowry, thus forming a tea drinking atmosphere in the British court to the folk. In the northern grasslands of China and the nomads in Russia, meat and milk are the mainstays. It is necessary to use tea to digest and get rich, and to get vitamin supplements. The Jin merchants discovered this business opportunity, so they formed a huge consumption of brick tea among the nomads in the north. They "really have no meat for three days, no tea for one day." Russian scholars wrote in the "Outer Baikal Borders" that "everything is rich and young, and you are all willing to drink brick tea... no matter when you go to any family, the owner must treat you with tea."

In order to facilitate long-distance trafficking and preservation, the tea merchants processed the prepared green brick tea and red brick tea into brick tea. After the tea bricks were shipped to Russia, the Russians broke the tea bricks into the end when they drank tea. They placed them in the stove and cooked them on the stove. Then they added sugar and milk to resist the long and cold Russian winter.

The carefully cultivated, processed and transported tea leaves are transported to Russia. When the merchants are transported through thousands of miles of water, after the Chucku trade, Russian businessmen travel west from Irkutsk, through Siberia, until Moscow and Peter. Fort. This is the little-known "tea road" that spans Eurasia for more than 260 years and is comparable to the "Silk Road" of the Han Dynasty.

“Wanli Tea Road” left a lot of material remains

Yangtze River Geography: Some data indicate that Wuyi Mountain is the starting point of “Wanli Tea Road”. Some people say that Yanglou Cave is the starting point. Which one is more accurate?

Liu Xiaohang: At the beginning, the route of “Wanli Tea Road” was indeed based on Wuyi Mountain. Jinshang Tea Gang transported the processed tea in Wuyishan to the north, from Xinjiang to Poyang Lake, and from Hukou to the Yangtze River to Hankou.

However, after the outbreak of the Taiping Heavenly Kingdom Movement, during the Xianfeng years, the war was burned to Fujian and Jiangxi. The tea source and the Jiangxi section of the “Wanli Tea Road” were blocked. At that time, in order to raise funds, the Qing government began to implement the Lijin system, which The department store has repeatedly levied PCT, and this policy has made the Shanxi businessmen miserable, because they have to go up the Wuyishan tea, and every time they go to a gate, they have to pay taxes, which greatly increases the cost. Therefore, Jinshang must find a new source of tea. On the way to find, they first discovered the Anhua of Hunan, and then discovered the Yanglou Cave, which reduced the fortune by more than 1,000 miles. Therefore, Jin Merchants came to the sheep building. The hole guides the locals to make black tea, which makes the tea planting grow rapidly. At that time, there were more than 300 tea houses in Yanglou Cave, with more than 20 ticket numbers and a population of more than 30,000. It was known as “Little Hankou”. Since then, Yanglou Cave and Anhua have become a new starting point for Wanli Tea Road. However, Hankou is the base for tea processing in the four provinces of Anhui, Hubei and Hubei. It is the largest distribution center for Chinese tea exports. 60% of Chinese tea is exported from Hankou.

Among all the tea exports, the sales of brick tea produced by Yanglou Cave is the best. According to records, in 1908, the output of Yangloudong reached 24,000 boxes, ranking first in Hubei. Today, the town's Zhao Liqiao tea production is still producing the Chuanzi brand of brick tea, which accounts for 80% of China's brick tea exports, and is known as the "Chinese old name". The shape of the green brick tea is rectangular brick shape, the color is brown and brown, the aroma is pure, the taste is still strong and green, the water color is red and yellow, the bottom of the leaf is dark and old. Each piece of blue brick weighs 2 kg.

In fact, there is another saying that Hankou is the starting point of “Wanli Tea Road”. Some experts said that Yanglou Cave can only be regarded as the origin of tea. At that time, Yanglou Cave and other places only transported tea to Hankou. Workers processed and transported these teas in Hankou. Therefore, some experts believe that in terms of the route of transportation, Hankou is the starting point of “Wanli Tea Road”.

Yangtze River Geography: Since the signing of the "Tianjin Treaty" in 1861, Hankou has become an important distribution center for the Sino-Russian Tea Road. It is also one of China's three major tea markets. What kind of scene was it at that time?

Liu Xiaohang: The prosperity of the Hankou tea market must be attributed to Russia. After the Second Opium War in 1864, China and Russia signed the Sino-Russian Treaty of Tianjin, the Sino-Russian Treaty of Beijing, and the Sino-Russian Land Trade Regulations, which enabled Russian tea merchants to obtain the privilege of directly taking tea in China. . Between 1863 and 1877, Russian merchants set up three brick tea factories in Yanglou Cave. In 1877, Russian merchants moved the brick tea factory to Hankou. The SF factory was located on the riverside of the British concession. The Xintai factory was located at the Lanling junction and the Suichang factory was located at the intersection of Nanjing.

At that time, Russian tea merchant Livinov introduced advanced tea-making equipment from Germany, improved the efficiency of processing tea, and established the quality standard of brick tea, which greatly increased the sales of tea. At that time, Hankou Port was called "Hankou" by Europeans. Tea Harbor and Eastern Chicago.

The scene of Hankou Tea Harbor is booming, and people are surging at the pier and Hanzheng Street. Hankou Wharf is 30 miles long and extends from Longwang Temple to Yujiaji. There is a description of the article: "There are a lot of merchants gathered, the shoulders of the boat are picking up, the waterway is like a weaving... The men who are sifting tea, the women of tea, the night and night laugh in the city, the sound is thunder, sweat is rain."

In the 19th century, the buildings left by the Russians in Hankou were almost all related to the tea merchants. In 1876, the Russian Orthodox Church donated by the Russian tea merchants. The Xintai Building, built in 1924 at the Lanling junction, is well preserved. In 1891, Xintai Tea Factory celebrated the 25th anniversary of the founding of the factory, holding a grand banquet and exhibition. The Russian Crown Prince (later Nicholas II), who is visiting China, made a special trip to Hankou to attend the celebration. In the same year, the Russian concession also preserved the Russian consulate built in 1902, the Russian patrol house and the Ministry of Industry, the Oriental Huili Bank and the tea merchant Barov built a triangular apartment, the house of the Liwanov and the Bonco Russian teahouse. . In Russia, two of the three major tea factories in Han Dynasty were still found.

Brick tea is not suitable for Chinese tastes

Yangtze River Geography: What is the current Hankou tea market?

Liu Xiaohang: The original Hankou tea market has ceased to exist. In the past, the large and small docks along the Yangtze River were also demolished. The original bustling tea market Hanzheng Street was also replaced by various wholesale markets. The current Hankou tea market is mainly concentrated in the tea market of Chongren Road, which was built in 2000. The current Hankou tea market is mainly domestic sales. About 30,000 tons of tea will be sold from Hankou tea market every year. Only about 10% of the tea is sold abroad.

The variety of teas sold has been diversified. Few customers now buy brick tea, which is not suitable for Chinese tastes. Black tea is the best-selling, followed by green tea. As far as the brand is concerned, the brand of Hubei tea is dazzling, and the flower tip is already recognized as the first brand of Hubei famous tea. Enshi Yulu is considered to be the first historical tea in Hubei. In addition, "Wu Dangdao Tea", "Longfeng Tea", "Xiao's Tea" and "Wujiatai Gong Tea" are all good tea brands in Hubei.

In spite of this, the Hankou tea market has faded the halo of one of the “three major tea markets”. The production of tea in Hubei also occupies the fourth position in the country. Zhejiang, Yunnan and Anhui have done a better job in tea brands and market operations. We are better.

Yangtze River Geography: What is the meaning of the "tea road" now?

Liu Xiaohang: Although the road to tea is open later than the Silk Road, its economic significance and huge commodity load can be compared with the Silk Road. Although the two-century Sino-Russian tea business has disappeared, it is vividly recorded in the history of modern Sino-Russian international trade, and this ancient international business road from south to north, from China to Russia "Wanli Tea Road" Leave a lot of material remains.

Now in Yanglou Cave, there is a complete Ming and Qing Stone Street in the town. Xindian Town, 10 km away from Yanglou Cave, is the starting point of brick tea entering the waterway. There are still two or three old streets in Ming and Qing Dynasties, all of which are blue stone paving roads. The shops on both sides are wooden structures. The Russian concession in Wuhan still retains the ancient buildings associated with the tea market at that time.

The Qiqidian store in Sheqi County of Henan Province is an important transit point on the Russian tea trade route. It still holds several old facades of the Ming and Qing dynasty Shiban Street, the ancient shop traders, and a large scale in the town. Jinshan Hall. These are rare tourist resources.

The Shanxi Jinzhong District retains the complete Jin Merchants Guild Hall. Zhangjiakou, Hohhot and Erlianhot completely preserved the Shanxi Guild Hall and the station of the “Wanli Tea Road”.

In mid-July this year, at the Mayor Summit of the “Tea Road and Urban Development” held in Hohhot, Russia and Mongolia proposed many constructive measures in the revival of “Wanli Tea Road”, in the cities along the Wanli Tea Road. The mayors signed the Wanli Tea Road City Alliance, and Xianning City and Chibi City in Hubei have joined, marking the beginning of the revival of “Wanli Tea Road”.

◇Visit the “Hankou Tea Market” at 148 Chongren Road, Hankou

At the intersection of Chongren Road and Jinghan Avenue in Qiaokou District, the words “Hankou Tea Market” are very eye-catching. It is located in the largest tea market in Central South China.

“Hankou Tea Market” opened at 8:00 in the morning.

The number 1858 is written under the words "Hankou Tea Market". 1858 was the most prosperous time in Hankou Tea Market. Seeing this figure, I seem to have seen that in 1858, there were large and small docks on the Hankou River. The sweat of the porters fell on the bluestone board and loaded the boat with a load of tea. In Hanzheng Street, not far from the riverside, the crowds are full of people, and the merchants are in a constant stream. There are various tea shops selling alongside the small streets.

Walking through a trail of about 20 meters, you can see a variety of tea shops in the shape of a mouth. “Hankou Tea Market” is hidden in towering residential buildings. To the reporter's curiosity, at 8 o'clock in the morning, all the facades have been opened, and I walked through a tea shop, tea house, and tea house, and I was in the world of tea. In front of a shop, two old men sat in front of a wooden table, and placed a stack of newspapers on the table, a pot of tea, and they could hear their laughter from time to time.

There are three relatively large tea markets in Wuhan: “Lu Yu Tea House” in Wuchang Fuxing Road, “Hankou Tea Market” in Chongren Road, Hankou, and Hong Kong Road Tea Market. The “Hankou Tea Market” of Chongren Road is the first tea market in Central South China. Covering an area of ​​20 acres, it is home to about 300 shops. The total transaction volume of Hubei tea is now 67,000 tons, while the annual transaction of “Hankou Tea Market” has reached more than 30,000 tons.

"This is a pot of Pu'er that I only dunk this morning."

Feel free to go to a store. After introducing the products in their store, the waiter entertained me with great enthusiasm. "Come and have a good Pu'er here."

"This is a pot of Pu'er that I only brewed this morning." The waiter said, "This is a warm cup. Before the first bubble is poured out, it is best to warm the cup with hot water to welcome the first bubble. Because the cup is kept. The temperature of the tea makes the aroma of the tea more obvious and the taste is more beautiful, so the purpose of the warm cup is to prepare for the nourishment of the first tea."

When the waiter showed the steps of making tea step by step, it seemed as if everything around him was still. The fragrance of the tea is permeated in the surrounding air. I carefully taste the tea and listen to the waiter telling the tea ceremony.

"Whether the guests can buy or not to buy tea, we will definitely invite guests to come to tea, this is our hospitality," the waiter said.

The most special thing about “Hankou Tea Market” is “late tea”.

Mr. Liu, who is over 60 years old, loves tea very much and is a frequent visitor to Hankou Tea House. Mr. Liu lives in Wuchang and always goes to various tea markets during his leisure time. “Here is my favorite tea market. There is a kind of antique taste. The dense tea house makes me feel like I have come to the world of tea. Every time I pass by to see three or two teas in the tea house, I can’t help but buy some back. "Mr. Liu said.

The most special thing about “Hankou Tea Market” is “late tea”. According to the store's proposition, the spring and autumn of each year, the scene of Jinghan Avenue in the evening is quite spectacular. The owner puts tables and chairs at the door of the store for tea for endless guests. "The price of tea is different according to the variety of tea. Under normal circumstances, it is a cup of 10 yuan." Ms. Zhang said that melon seeds are free. At most, you can see that people along the Jinghan Avenue are full of people.

According to Zhang Yuefeng, chairman of Wuhan Huanghelou Tea Co., Ltd., not only late tea, but also “Hankou Tea Market” has organized some cultural activities from time to time to fight “tea culture street”, such as the first famous tea in Hubei Province. Trade fairs, China Wuhan International Tourism Festival "Yukou tea rhyme" activities, "people stage" and so on.

"China-Russia Tea Trade" Route

1. From Hankou to Hanshui to Fancheng, transfer to Tanghe to reach the Qiqidian store and change to land transportation. The horses will be transported to the north, Pingdingshan, Luoyang and Duhuanghe will enter the Taihang, and the Jincheng Changzhi will be sent to the county, and then Lucun changed the animal power cart, through Taiyuan, Datong to Zhangjiakou or naturalization, and then changed the camel team, through the Gobi desert through Cullen to Chaktu into the Russian territory. (This is comparable to the Silk Road, which has prospered the two-and-a-half-century tea road.)

2. After the 26th year of Emperor Qianlong (1761), it was transported from the mouth of the Hankou River by the Hankou River. It was transported to the Shanxi Guihua Hall (now Hohhot) by the animals, and then transferred to Central Asia and West Asia through the Xinjiang.

After 3.1871, the Russians opened up a new transportation route. The tea was transported from Hankou to the east, from Shanghai to Tianjin into the Sea of ​​Japan, and then from the Heilongjiang estuary to the north of the river into the Ussuri River, and the land transported to Irkutz. Gram.

The Jinghan Railway was completed in 4.1906, and the Siberian Railway was completed in 1914. Tea from Hankou to Beijing to Tianjin Yuehai via Dalian exported to Vladivostok from Siberian Railways to transport Moscow and Petersburg.

5. Hankou Shun Yangtze River to Shanghai, halfway from South China, through the Pacific Ocean, the Indian Ocean, the Arabian Sea, the Red Sea, the Mediterranean Sea, the Black Sea, and the maritime line of Odessa Port in Ukraine.