There are methods for chestnut-shaped tree-shaped cultivation

Chestnut chestnut with low stem and short crown and multiple main branches has a heart-shaped tree shape, which is especially suitable for wide rows and short dense planting in steep terrain such as mountains and hills. So, how to master the main points of plastic surgery? Recently, the reporter interviewed Tian Shoule, a researcher at the Fruit Research Institute of Shandong Province.

After the seedlings were grafted in the year, when the new shoots from the scion grew to 30-40 cm, they were picked and set to dry. The grafted seedlings that were directly planted were cut short at 30-40 cm from the ground, leaving 2 to 3 under the cut A full bud, when set to dry, promotes the emergence of strong branches to facilitate plastic surgery.

Select the main branch and set the stem. Select the erect strong branch from the germinated new shoot that year as the trunk extension branch. At the same time, select the two lower thicker oblique branches as the first and second main branches, and use the lowermost main branch. As the first main branch, they are arranged upward in order. When the trunk is extended to 30-40 cm, topping is performed. Select 2 oblique branches as the third and fourth main branches from the strong branches sprouted from the second topping. Note that the third and fourth main branches should be staggered with the first and second main branches to avoid overlapping. The trunk extension branches continue to grow upwards, no longer topping. If the number of main branches in the current year cannot reach the reserved number, the main branch is shortened in the second year, and the main branches are selected from the new shoots that are promoted.

After the side branches are selected in early spring, a large number of side branches will sprout from the main branch. Choose from the strong branches of the main branch and match with reasonable side branches. The first branch is 50 to 60 cm away from the trunk. It is obtained by selecting natural sprouting branches or carving buds. For the other sprouts that have sprouted, choose one for every 20-30 cm, and try to choose the side branches with open base angles, or expand the base angle by pulling branches, braces, etc. The base angle of the side branches is generally larger than the base angle of the main branches. Some vigorously growing side branches were harvested and cultured directly into fruiting branch groups.

Cultivation results: The branch group was cut in the winter of the second year, and the first to the third main branches were lightly truncated to cut off 1/3 of the current year's branch length; the fourth and fifth main branches were lightly or medium to short truncated. Go to the year 1/3 ~ 1/2. The first to third main branches are selected to have 2 to 3 side branches. The first side branch is about 60 cm from the second side branch, the second side branch is about 50 cm from the third side branch, and the remaining side branches are all sparse. The fourth and fifth main branches are selected to have 1 to 2 side branches, the distance between the side branches is about 50 cm, and the remaining side branches are all thinned out. The selected side branches are pruned, and the short shoots are cut at the full buds of the extended head to promote the branching to form a fruiting branch group. For the formed fruiting branch group, 8 to 10 fruiting branches are kept per square meter, and part of the developing branches are re-cut at the same time to cultivate the fruiting female branches of the next year. After 3 to 5 years of plastic pruning, a low-dried dwarf crown with many main branches and a heart-shaped tree shape are basically formed.


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